When Erik Brunetti founded FUCT (Friends U Can’t Trust) in 1990, he wasn’t just creating a clothing line—he was sparking a revolution in the world of fashion. With a blend of subversive, anti-authoritarian designs and a strong stance against commercialization, FUCT has cemented its place as one of the most influential and controversial streetwear brands in history. Its irreverent approach to design and its commitment to counter-cultural messaging have made FUCT a beacon for those who reject the mainstream. Over three decades, the brand has maintained its underground ethos while continuing to influence generations of artists, skaters, and streetwear enthusiasts.

Origins: From Subculture to Streetwear Icon

The genesis of FUCT is deeply rooted in Erik Brunetti’s background as an artist and his involvement in the punk, skate, and graffiti scenes of the 1980s. Brunetti was part of a cultural moment where rebellion against authority and disdain for the status quo were central to the identity of these subcultures. His approach to fashion was not about following trends but about making statements—bold, often provocative ones that questioned the structures of power, capitalism, and consumer culture.

The name FUCT itself was a subversive act. Pronounced in a way that evokes “fucked,” the brand’s name immediately set it apart from more polished, commercial labels. It reflected Brunetti’s disdain for societal norms and highlighted his intention to disrupt fashion conventions. The name, while controversial, aligned perfectly with the rebellious ethos of the brand, and it was an instant hit with people who felt disconnected from the mainstream.

At the time of its creation, streetwear was still an emerging movement. Other iconic brands like Stüssy and Supreme were starting to gain traction, but FUCT distinguished itself by embracing an edgier, more politically charged approach. Brunetti used clothing as a canvas for his critiques, mixing graphic design, satirical imagery, and a punk sensibility to create designs that were as thought-provoking as they were visually striking.

The Art of Subversion: FUCT’s Designs

What set FUCT apart from other brands was its fearless approach to controversial topics. The brand’s designs were loaded with symbolism, satire, and appropriated imagery that critiqued corporate power, war, government, and consumerism. Whether it was reinterpreting iconic corporate logos or subverting militaristic imagery, FUCT designs often featured visual metaphors that forced viewers to rethink their relationship with the world around them.

One of FUCT’s most iconic early works was its series of shirts that appropriated popular logos from corporations like Ford and Disney, flipping them into statements about the evils of capitalism. By altering these logos and incorporating counter-culture motifs, Brunetti was making a statement about the commercialization of everything, including art and fashion. He challenged his audience to consider the implications of corporate control over culture and their role as consumers.

Beyond the anti-corporate messaging, FUCT also delved into political commentary. Its “LSD in the Military” collection, for example, was a critique of government propaganda and the glorification of war. FUCT used imagery from the Vietnam War era, manipulating it to expose the hypocrisy of state-controlled narratives about conflict and patriotism. The designs were confrontational, but they resonated with those who felt disillusioned by the sanitized messages promoted by mainstream media and politicians.

FUCT’s aesthetic was raw, gritty, and unapologetic. Unlike other streetwear brands that polished their designs for mass appeal, FUCT’s art was intentionally uncomfortable, forcing the wearer and the viewer to confront difficult truths about society, politics, and culture. It was a brand for outsiders—those who didn’t fit into neatly defined boxes and who rejected societal norms.

Influence on Streetwear and Culture

Though FUCT has often existed outside of the mainstream, its influence on streetwear and contemporary fashion is undeniable. The brand’s commitment to subversion, its critique of consumerism, and its use of art as a tool for rebellion have inspired countless other streetwear labels and designers.

Brands like Supreme, which would go on to become one of the most commercially successful streetwear companies in the world, owe a debt to FUCT’s early influence. While Supreme has largely moved into the realm of high fashion and pop culture, its early ethos of anti-authoritarianism and outsider culture was very much in line with what Brunetti had established with FUCT.

FUCT hoodie also played a key role in bridging the gap between streetwear and the art world. Brunetti has always been an artist first and a fashion designer second. He has exhibited his work in galleries around the world, and his designs for FUCT have always carried the weight of art—each piece telling a story or making a statement. This approach, blending high art with street fashion, helped pave the way for other artists and brands to explore similar crossovers.

Beyond the world of fashion, FUCT’s cultural relevance is reflected in the underground movements it has supported over the years. From punk rockers to skaters and graffiti artists, the brand has always aligned itself with communities that reject the mainstream in favor of something more authentic, gritty, and real. This connection to underground culture has kept FUCT’s fan base loyal and passionate, even as streetwear as a whole has become more commercialized.

Legal Battles and First Amendment Victory

FUCT’s rebellious spirit didn’t just stop at its designs. In 2019, the brand found itself at the center of a significant legal battle with the U.S. Supreme Court. Brunetti had applied to trademark the FUCT name, but the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office (USPTO) rejected the application, citing that the name was “scandalous” and therefore not eligible for trademark protection.

Brunetti fought back, arguing that the USPTO’s refusal violated his First Amendment rights. In a landmark decision, the Supreme Court ruled in favor of Brunetti, stating that the government could not deny trademark protection on the basis of something being “immoral” or “scandalous.” The ruling was a victory not just for FUCT but for freedom of expression in general, setting a precedent for artists and brands that challenge societal norms.

The legal battle further cemented FUCT’s place as a brand that stands against authority and censorship. It reinforced its commitment to free speech and artistic expression, even when those expressions are uncomfortable or controversial.

FUCT Today: Staying True to Its Roots

Even as streetwear has become a global phenomenon, with brands collaborating with luxury houses and celebrities, FUCT has remained steadfast in its commitment to counter-culture. Brunetti has never compromised his vision for the sake of commercial success, and FUCT’s limited-edition drops continue to attract a devoted following.

In the era of fast fashion and social media-driven trends, FUCT stands as a reminder of what streetwear was always meant to be: a voice for the disenchanted, the rebels, and those who refuse to conform. The brand’s continued relevance is a testament to its authenticity and the power of its message.

For over three decades, FUCT has remained an icon of counter-culture, challenging the status quo and inspiring those who seek to disrupt the systems of power that shape our world. It’s more than a clothing brand—it’s a movement, a statement, and a work of art that continues to evolve while staying true to its rebellious roots. As long as there are people who feel disconnected from the mainstream, FUCT will continue to be a beacon for those who dare to question, critique, and defy.