Introduction to CDG (Comme des Garçons)

Comme des Garçons, often abbreviated as CDG, is a Japanese fashion brand that has garnered a cult following for its avant-garde approach to design. Founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, the brand quickly became known for its unconventional silhouettes, bold designs, and fearless experimentation with fashion norms. CDG has grown into a multi-faceted empire, encompassing various lines, including Comme des Garçons Homme, Comme Des Garcons Play, and others.

The Visionary Behind CDG: Rei Kawakubo

Rei Kawakubo is the heart and soul of Comme des Garçons. Born in Tokyo in 1942, Kawakubo did not start her career in fashion. Instead, she studied fine arts and literature at Keio University and initially worked in advertising. Her leap into fashion was unorthodox, as she did not undergo formal fashion design training. This freedom from traditional constraints allowed her to approach design from an entirely new perspective, which has been key to CDG’s revolutionary success.

Kawakubo’s designs defy categorization and often challenge traditional notions of beauty. She focuses on abstract forms, deconstruction, and creating clothing that is sometimes deliberately “ugly” or unsettling. Her work has blurred the lines between fashion and art, making Comme des Garçons a respected name in both worlds.

The Early Years: Breaking Into the Fashion Scene

When Kawakubo launched Comme des Garçons in the late 1960s, the fashion landscape was dominated by Western designers. CDG’s initial collections were starkly different from anything the fashion world had seen. In the 1970s, she focused on minimalist and monochrome pieces, often using shades of black, white, and grey. Her designs subverted traditional tailoring, featuring loose, oversized garments, and asymmetrical cuts that rejected the conventional ideals of form-fitting clothing.

In 1981, Kawakubo made her Paris debut, and her first runway show caused quite a stir. The collection, known as “Destroy,” showcased clothes that looked “unfinished” with raw hems, tears, and irregular shapes. Critics dubbed the show “Hiroshima Chic,” as her designs reflected a sense of destruction and chaos. While polarizing, the show made it clear that Kawakubo was not interested in following trends but in creating her own.

Comme des Garçons’ Aesthetic: Deconstruction and Innovation

CDG’s aesthetic is characterized by deconstruction, asymmetry, and experimentation with shape and fabric. Kawakubo frequently explores themes of imperfection, decay, and transformation in her collections. Her clothing is often architectural, playing with proportions in ways that obscure the human form or exaggerate specific body parts. She uses unusual materials like synthetic fabrics, rubber, and vinyl alongside traditional textiles, creating a contrast that is central to her design philosophy.

One of the hallmarks of CDG’s approach is its embrace of imperfection. Kawakubo has famously said that she does not design for “pretty” or “beautiful” clothing but for thought-provoking garments that challenge norms. This mindset has placed her work in the realm of art and often evokes strong emotional reactions from audiences and critics alike.

CDG’s Expansion: From High Fashion to Global Streetwear

While Comme des Garçons started as a niche, avant-garde label, it has since expanded into various sectors of the fashion world. Over the years, the brand has launched several sub-labels and collaborations that cater to different demographics. One of the most popular lines is Comme des Garçons Play, which features more casual, wearable pieces such as t-shirts, sneakers, and hoodies adorned with the iconic heart logo designed by Filip Pagowski.

CDG has also been a major player in the world of collaborations, working with brands ranging from Nike and Converse to Supreme and Louis Vuitton. These partnerships have helped cement CDG’s place not only in high fashion but also in the realm of streetwear, appealing to a younger, trend-conscious audience while maintaining its avant-garde roots.

Iconic CDG Collections and Shows

Several collections stand out in Comme des Garçons’ long history, each pushing the boundaries of fashion. Some of the most iconic include:

1. Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body (Spring/Summer 1997)

This collection featured dresses padded in unusual places, distorting the natural shape of the body. The padded lumps and bumps created a surreal effect that questioned conventional ideas of beauty and form.

2. Lumps and Bumps (Spring/Summer 2017)

In this show, Kawakubo once again explored deconstruction, with models wearing outfits that created abstract, alien shapes. The exaggerated silhouettes looked almost sculptural, highlighting her ongoing interest in transforming the human body through clothing.

3. The Future of Silhouette (Fall/Winter 2017)

This collection was focused on abstract and oversized garments, with models wearing voluminous coats and dresses that seemed to defy gravity. The show was a meditation on the future of fashion, form, and the body.

Comme des Garçons’ Influence on the Fashion World

Kawakubo and CDG have had a profound influence on contemporary fashion. Many designers cite her work as an inspiration, and her fearless approach to design has helped open the door for other avant-garde designers, such as Martin Margiela, Yohji Yamamoto, and Hussein Chalayan. The brand’s emphasis on individuality, rebellion, and breaking the rules has resonated with generations of designers and fashion lovers.

Moreover, CDG’s influence can be seen in the rise of deconstruction and “ugly” fashion, where the beauty of clothing is found in its imperfections or in challenging conventional beauty standards. Fashion critics often refer to the CDG aesthetic as “anti-fashion,” yet it has been instrumental in shaping modern fashion trends.

The Business Side: Dover Street Market and Beyond

In addition to her work with Comme des Garçons, Kawakubo expanded her empire with the launch of Dover Street Market (DSM) in 2004. DSM is a multi-brand retailer that houses not only CDG but also other cutting-edge designers such as Raf Simons, Balenciaga, and Vetements. The store operates in major fashion capitals, including London, New York, Tokyo, and Paris, offering a curated selection of avant-garde and high-fashion brands.

Dover Street Market has become a key player in the fashion retail world, offering a unique shopping experience that blurs the line between art and commerce. Each store is designed with rotating installations, creating an ever-evolving space that keeps customers coming back.

Conclusion

Comme des Garçons is more than just a fashion brand; it is a philosophy that challenges the status quo and redefines what clothing can be. Rei Kawakubo’s fearless experimentation has led to a body of work that transcends traditional fashion and delves into the realm of art. With its various lines, collaborations, and global reach, CDG continues to influence and inspire, leaving an indelible mark on both high fashion and streetwear.